![]() The CYA level will slowly in a year or so go down.ĭraining the pool isn't that big of a deal. Chlorine tablets also have stabilizer.so, as the tablets dissolve, stabilizer is added to the pool If you use stabilized shock (shock that contain Dichlor or trichlor), then are adding chlorine and more aning that the next time you will need to add shock more frequently. If there is too much CYA in the pool, any chlorine you put into the pool will be absorbed by the CYA and will not be "free chlorine" to combat the algae.Īs the CYA level goes up, the more chlorine you have to add to the pool to fight the algae. When sunlight dissipates the chlorine, then the CYA releases chlorine into the pool water. If the pool is correctly balanced, excess chlorine is absorbed by the CYA. It bonds with the chlorine so that the chlorine does not completely dissipate in the sunlight. We had the same problem last year and had to drain the pool, and that is when I learned about pool chemistry.ĬYA is a chlorine stabilizer. (*REGULAR* Clorox at Costco is $12.00 for 6 gallons, if I remember correctly.) Buy liquid chlorineģ) Use liquid chlorine (i.e., Clorox) for the chlorine. For that matter, don't use shock at all.Ģ) Do not use tablets. But, right now, do the following:ġ) Stop using shock with stabilizer. I agree that you should read the articles and learn about pool chemistry. In the meantime, no more pucks or powders! Use liquid bleach! If you don't wish to call attention to yourself, a small sump pump and a long garden hose will bring the water around to the washing machine drain, or the sink cleanout, or even a toilet, which will probably have a 4" drain pipe that can take huge volumes of water. You can do it yourself, following the Extended Test Kit Directions for high CYA, and decide then how much water needs to be replaced. That being said, do you really trust these pool stores? If you've done any reading here, you'll know you need to invest in a proper test kit. But it's sure to be less than what's in the pool now. CH is a little harder to calculate, since tap water will have some. Tap water has no CYA, so replacing half the water will remove half the CYA. The Calcium is manageable, but since you need to drain off some to deal with the high CYA. I'm stuck and need some help here, folks! Thanks a lot. ![]() It's a bit of a snooty suburb so the city may not like it either. 3 acre lot surrounded by houses so draining down the driveway will surely interfere with other properties and **** off our new neighbors. Question 2: Where on earth do I put the water?! I have a pretty long driveway with no storm drains anywhere near my house and can't find a sewer clean out anywhere on the property.we live on a. Question 1: Do I need to really go through and drain the pool? The water looks fine.this just seems so extreme. He suggested I drain the pool entirely and start fresh as "dilution wont fix the CYA issue." I then took it to a Leslie's competitor (small local shop) and even explained that I had just been to his competitor and he verified their findings and recommended the same thing. He didn't even recommend I buy chemicals until I go through this procedure. The dude at the counter told me I need to drain my pool, which to a first time pool owner in a pool store basically threw me into a panic. Summary:įAC, TAC, PH, Copper, Iron, Phosphates: OK I knew well in advance they like to scare people into buying very expensive unnecessary chemicals. I took in a sample to Leslie's just so they could help me get the lay of the land. Roughly a 15,000 gallon pool, in-ground, chlorine, Dallas suburb of Highland Village. Now on to my problem: which is sort of two-tiered. This site has helped tremendously in learning some lingo and beginner tips, so thanks to all who contribute. I have owned a pool for about 2 weeks now (first time pool and first time homeowner) and naturally have no idea what I am doing.
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